Everyone at Oxford UOTC involved with the organisation of Ex. BLUE PALA wishes to thank the Ulysses Trust for the £900 contribution given to the expedition. Without this contribution OCdts would have certainly found it tougher to commit to the trip due to high personal contribution costs and therefore jeopardising the expedition going ahead.
Ex. BLUE PALA consisted of two teams, one trekking and one rock climbing. The trekking team warmed-up with several day walks in preparation for their main goal, the completion of the long Alta Via 1 route. Accommodation predominately consisted of wild camping, but with some huts along the route. The team built up from trekking with daysacks to full expedition sacks, carrying all they would need for 11 days, with some food re-supplies along the way. They carried all this equipment up various peaks/cols, over rugged rocky terrain and through extremes of weather, from blistering sun to plummets in temperature (e.g. being snowed in for a day at a hut).
The trekking team found the trek challenging, yet thoroughly enjoyable throughout. All individuals qualified for the Summer Mountain Foundation as a result of the skills learnt during the expedition. The skills taught to all individuals will undoubtedly help them progress towards gaining the Mountain Leader Training qualification, and many OCdts were certainly inspired to do this after completing their trekking on the expedition.
The rock climbing team consisted of OCdts with a variety of experience. Though not all total novices, the group had limited/no experience of multi-pitch climbing or of climbing in alpine terrain. Therefore, all OCdts were continuously tested, but learnt fast and consequently gained extensive knowledge and experience of how to be a competent climber in an alpine environment.
The climbing team had 3 main objectives. Initially, they must learn the skills necessary for multi-pitch climbing, in order to become a competent second on a variety of challenging routes. The team members completed introductory routes at Cinque Torri (2,361m), climbing various towers to learn the basic skills. Following this, the OCdts were thrown into longer and tough routes to test and hone the skills they had learnt.
Secondly, the team were introduced to a variety of climbing areas throughout the Dolomites and exposed to a range of multi-pitch climbs, differing in length and grade/seriousness. The team based themselves around several areas: Cortina, San Martino di Castrozza and Canazei, with the main intent to climb in the Pala region for the majority of the expedition. The Punta Fiames was the first test, a 15 pitches(IV+)route with a length of 400m! Until the day before the OCdts had not previously climbed higher than 15m, so this was certainly a baptism of fire…….all coped well. So the team set their sights on bigger challenges.
They then moved to the Pala region to complete a combination of ascents from the valley, bivouacs and huts. The Pala region is renowned to be of a more serious traditional nature due to its more ‘mountaineering style’ routes, offering less fixed protection. A couple of rope teams luckily managed to climb big routes such as the Weisner-Keisroute(SassoD'Ortiga) and the Cima Val di Roda NW Face duringa few frustrating days of bad weather.
The Pradidali hut was then used as a base for a few days of good weather, where routes were chosen that progressed in difficulty. Firstly, Campanile Pradidali (IV) was climbed, then CimaImmik (V), and finally the intimidating and demanding Pala di San Martino "Gran Pilastre". This was no vertical stroll with its 22 pitches of climbing up to the highest peak in the area (2,982m), and with one of the most complicated descents in the entire Dolomites. This meant some teams did not return to the hut until the early hours. This route certainly met all the aims of AT and perfectly rounded off the end of the trip.
Finally, OCdts were able to gain their Rock Climbing Foundation (RCF), a qualification reflecting their personal competency when rock climbing. Following this, many OCdts are keen to progress onto the Rock Leader Training qualification after the expedition.
In summary, I would like to say thank you once again for the contribution given by the Ulysses Trust – everyone involved with the expedition thoroughly enjoyed the challenges it presented and gained an incredible amount of experience whilst pushing themselves to their limits.
JUO J Smith
